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Very few people are invited into the cellar master’s ‘Paradise’, let alone invited to taste Cognacs over 100 years old.
As my visitors’ party stood in the dark, secret confines of the Paradise where the oldest and rarest Cognacs are stored, surrounded by dusty demijohns, I experienced my first taste of a 1906 vintage. A chink of natural light found its way in through a cobwebbed window to reveal the honey amber liquid of the exceptionally rare drink offered to us by cellar master Pierre from Ferrand, one of Cognac’s finest houses.
I was visiting the region nestled between Bordeaux and the Loire and taking the opportunity to explore the Cognac Houses there. The picturesque chateaux of Hennessey is situated in the centre of the town of Cognac, offering visitors a trip along the wide scenic river as part of the cellar tour and an opportunity to take in some of the green spaces. Excursions to smaller houses often need to be booked in advance, but provide a delightful opportunity to explore exquisite French country châteaux. Although you are unlikely to visit a Paradise the guides will fascinate you with stories of family histories and traditions, explaining how their choice of land, philosophy, grapes and oak barrels create the very finest cognacs.
Just six ‘crus,’ or grape-growing areas, comprise the Cognac region. At the heart of the region is Grande Champagne, considered to be the finest crus. With its chalky clay soil characteristic, identical to the champagne region, it is thought to produce the best Ugni Blanc grapes. Next to an 11th century church, considered by some to be the origin of Cognac, is the boutique house of Ferrand. In the Grande Champagne vineyards cellar master Pierre gave us a comprehensive introduction to the art of Cognac.
Creating a well-rounded digestif takes time, tradition and patience. Highly alcoholic yet floral and aromatic 'eau-de-vies’ are distilled from the acidic wine before resting for years in oak barrels for anything from two to 60 years, to reach the perfect stage of maturation. During this time two to three per cent can be lost to evaporation each year. Known as 'the angel’s share,' the process eliminates harsh flavours and develops the bouquet. Each house has it's own choice of distillation process that the cellar master monitors to craft the perfect set of ingredients or eau-de-vies which he mixes to create cognacs characteristic of that house. Hennessey has a fruity floral style, Hine creates a balanced elegance while similar champagne cognacs from Remy Martin have a subtle, spicy length.
Enjoying Cognac can be described as an Art de Vivre. It takes concentration and a good 'nose' to reveal light floral bouquets, summer fruits, nuts and spices, or heavier aromas of nuts, mocha, leather and tobacco. After my French sojourn I was invited to sample some rare vintages at an exclusive dinner held in London by Bernard Hine, Honorary Chairman of Hine. These are the most exalted of spirits, a few precious barrels that have been left to mature. In 1981 Hine presented the Cognac to Charles and Diana, on the occasion of their wedding and as suppliers to the Queen no doubt one of their vintages will make an appearance at William and Kate's wedding dinner.
The piece de resistance was a 1961 Jarnac, a classic, after-dinner digestif, light in colour but well rounded with aromas and flavours of wood, spice and cigar. With only 24 bottles available in the UK and with a price tag of £495 this would make a very special birthday present. But for more modest after-dinner budgets you can enjoy an excellent Hine Antique XO Cognac from around £120 or a VSOP from around £30.
Cognac town
Cognac lovers and novices alike will enjoy a trip to this historic French town on the River Charente, surrounded by vineyards. Since the 17th century the vast majority of locals have worked in the Cognac industry and the passion seeps into nearly every level of the culture. The regions dedication to quality can be found in exceptional restaurants, and the daily market, offering some 10,000 local food products and regional specialities.
Where to buy:
1961 Hine vintage: Berry Bros £495; Hine Antique XO: Waitrose £120; Frapin VSOP: Waitrose Direct £33.99
When to visit:
End of July: Blues Festival, 120 concerts over 6 days, 2011 headlined by Seal.
Places to visit:
Museum of Cognac; Daily market sells over 10,000 local food products; Cognac chateaux tours
Reading the label:
VS (Very Special) – aged for a minimum of two years
VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) Reserve – aged for a minimum of four years
Napoleon XO (Extra Old) – aged for a minimum of 6 years